Prior to now, I have used yuzu juice in my shoyu recipes, but it was more so for subtle taste notes since the shoyu elements were quite strong. I have come to realize just how much the yuzu really shines when showcased and paired with a shio tare; you really do not need to use much, either. I can’t speak for others who make this type of ramen, but I do feel that the purpose in bringing the yuzu to the forefront is to arrest the senses.
Before starting any of my recipes, please check out a short entry that I wrote in regards to prepping plus other recommended things to take note of: https://flyingcraneramen.com/2020/08/23/getting-started-please-read-before-starting-any-of-my-recipes/. There is nothing more daunting than being halfway through an undertaking like homemade ramen only to discover that either: you are missing key equipment, or that you made things much harder on yourself by doing unnecessary extra work.
That said, the recipe follows as such:
Tare: Use 30ml (or to taste) of the tare when making your bowl of ramen to eat
75ml of sake
75ml of mirin
25ml of white shoyu
25ml of dark shoyu
30g of yellow rock sugar (or white granulated if you can’t find it)
60g of sea salt
10ml of sweet fish sauce
3g of MSG (optional)
Meat & Bone Stock: Use 300ml of the meat & bone stock when making your bowl of ramen to eat
3L of water and 1.5 kg of a chicken carcass, wings, drumsticks, and skinless thighs
1 Garlic bulb, sliced in half
5 cm of Ginger, sliced into coins
1 or 2 whole leeks
Seafood reduction + Kombu dashi: Use 50ml of this for your bowl of ramen to eat
750ml of water
20g of kombu
25g of dried shiitake
20g of niboshi
(in a separate container): 50g of dried scallops and 250ml of water
40g of dried salmon
20g of dried pollack
10g of dried bonito
Aroma Oil: Use 25ml of the aroma oil for your bowl of ramen to eat
150ml of rendered chicken fat
60ml of sunflower oil
35ml of rendered pork fat
5ml of sesame oil
Yuzu juice: Use 10ml of the yuzu juice for your bowl of ramen to eat
Toppings: (Technically, all are optional lol)
Leek, finely sliced
CHASHU DRY BRINE — This will be used as a pre-prep for the braising process to help retain moisture, and to assist in the browning/searing when cooking.
50g of brown sugar
50g of sea salt
1g of baking soda
• The baking soda acts not only as a tenderizer to hold in moisture, but it will help the outside to brown easier when cooking.
CHASHU MARINADE — This will also be used as a pre-prep for the braising process to help deodorize, and also flavor the pork.
75ml of sake
350ml of water
15g of sliced ginger
CHASHU BRAISING SAUCE & AJITAMA MARINADE — After making the chashu pork, reserve 500ml of this sauce to also use for marinating the ajitama.
1L of water
500ml of shoyu
100ml of sake
50g of brown sugar
10g of ginger slices
10g of garlic
1 green onion
150g (dried) of bamboo shoots
500ml of water
10g of kombu
5g of katsuobushi
125ml of dark shoyu
40ml of mirin
75ml of sake
25g of brown sugar
15g of sea salt
5g of ginger slices
5g of garlic
25ml of sesame oil
Noodles: Use 125g of noodles for your bowl of ramen to eat
1.5mm × 1.5mm SQUARE SHAPE,
A total of 900 g of Flour/Starch:
667g of High Gluten bread flour
215g of Bread flour
9g of Whole Wheat flour
9g of Potato Starch
315g of Water (35% hydration)
12g of Sea Salt
9g of Kansui (7g of Potassium Carbonate, 2g of Sodium Carbonate)
I have a vintage Ono noodle machine that can easily handle rolling lower hydration doughs [<35% hydration] and a Marcato pasta machine (plus 5 different attachment cutters) for cutting the dough. The Ono noodle machine which is made mostly of heavy iron and copper, plus my husband usually helping me with rolling the dough makes it feasible for me. That said, these noodles may be a bit too difficult for most to handle due the low moisture content. Unless you have a machine like mine or a machine that has electrical rolling power, you may be better off just buying your noodles from an Asian market or other retailer.
These noodles that I made for the yuzu shio will be left to further mature in the refrigerator for 2 days.
As mentioned before in my Tonkotsu Walkthrough (https://flyingcraneramen.com/2020/02/27/tonkotsu-a-complete-and-in-depth-walkthrough/), I always start the chashu, tare, and other components a few days in advance.
CHASHU (updated recipe): Rub the pork shoulder butt (which is the meat that is going to be used for the pork chashu ramen topping), with the dry brine of 50g of sea salt, 50g of brown sugar, and 1g of baking soda. The baking soda acts not only as a tenderizer to hold in moisture, but it will help the outside to brown easier when cooking. Now, place the pork shoulder in a baggie, letting out as much air as possible, and then store it in the refrigerator overnight and up to 24 hours.
SEAFOOD REDUCTION + KOMBU DASHI: First, soak the dried shiitake in water for 30 minutes to reconstitute them. Also, lightly toast the niboshi until fragrant. Then, in another container, combine the 750ml of water, the kombu, shiitake, niboshi and refrigerate overnight.
Place the dried scallops in a container and soak them for 4 hours. Discard that water, then fill it with 250ml of fresh water. These will soak overnight as well.
MENMA: Many Asian markets carry the seasoned bamboo shoots that are already prepared and seasoned for you. If tou wish, just purchase these to save time and effort. However, I like to season mine because it allows me to customize the recipe to suit whatever ramen I am making. For the most part, my recipe does not deviate from the one above.
The dried bamboo shoots that I bought required a bit of prep work before I could season them. For dried shoots, soak them in water for 4 hours, then discard the water. Place the shoots in a pot with enough water to cover them and boil them for 15 minutes. Drain, and then fill the pot with fresh water and again, boil them for another 15 minutes. Drain, and allow the shoots to cool completely. I let mine cool in the refrigerator overnight.
In the meantime, place the 10g of kombu to be used for the menma sauce in a container with the 500ml of water. Cover, and allow this to soak overnight.
CHASHU: Add the grated ginger, sake, and water to the container holding the dry-brined pork shoulder butt from the day before. Again, let the pork shoulder soak covered, overnight. As you can see, mine looks in disarray because I perfer to cut the bone out myself; I like the meat to stay all in one piece. By doing so, it makes the chashu easier to roll later on.
SEAFOOD REDUCTION + KOMBU DASHI: Take the kombu dashi out of the refrigerator that was prepped the day before. Place it in a saucepan, heat it to 62°C, then remove the kombu. Now add in the 250ml water plus the scallops that were soaking from the day before, the dried pollack, and the dried salmon. Raise the heat to 82°C, and maintain this temperature for 30 minutes. Add in the katsuobushi (if you are using the more readily available thin flakes your cook time to extract flavor will be much less). Stir it in, and after no more than seconds, strain everything through a fine mesh. Now, begin the reduction process by turning the heat to 100°C, uncovered and keep boiling until the volume of liquid is only about 50% of the initial volume in the saucepan.
MENMA: Take the shoots out from the day before, and vacuumed-seal any that you do not plan to immediately use. They can keep fresh in the refrigerator for up to a year, and for much longer in the freezer.
Pull out the kombu and water that you allowed to soak overnight. Pour it into a saucepan and heat it to 62°C, then remove the kombu. Add in the shoyu, sake, mirin, salt, ginger, garlic, scallion, katsuobushi, sesame oil and simmer for 10 minutes. Strain the sauce through a mesh and then pour it over the bamboo shoots. Cover them with a paper towel to better keep them submerged in the liquid. I recommend allowing the shoots to soak in the sauce for at least a day before using them.
TARE: This will be a salt-based tare and have a syrup-like consistency due to being highly-concentrated in salt and sugar with respect to the other liquids used. (Also to note, the only white shoyu I had on-hand was the bottle of sakura shoyu from my spring ramen feature. The sakura notes are very subtle, so I did not hinder the flavor much if at all.)
Start the soup tare by first evaporating alcohol from the sake and mirin in a saucepan. To do this, bring the temperature of the sake and mirin to 80°C.
Then add in the yellow rock sugar (or white sugar), salt, white shoyu, dark shoyu, fish sauce, and MSG (if you’re choosing to use it). Turn off the heat and stir until the sugar amd salt are dissolved as best you can. Allow to cool, then place in the refrigerator until you need it.
MEAT & BONE STOCK: I prefer to soak the chicken carcass, and cuts of meat in a pot with water overnight. This will remove much of the blood from the meat and reduce the amount of scum floating at the top of our stock when we begin cooking it. Do this the night before you plan to make your stock. Set the skin aside and save it to render for the aromatic oil later on.
MEAT & BONE STOCK: Drain the water from the pot containing the chicken meat and bones that you plan to use for your stock. For cleaner flavor and to decrease the amount of fat that may present itself in the stock (the animal fat causes opaqueness in the stock, especially if the temperature is too high), I like to roast the chicken first. For an hour on each side, at 180°C, roast the chicken meat & bones. They should caramelize and have a nice brown, golden hue once you are finished.
After roasting, add them to an aluminum pot and pour 3L of water over them. Heat to 83°C and maintain this temperature for 6-8 hours. In the last 3 hours before it is finished, gently place the leek, garlic, and ginger in the pot.
After 6-8 hours, strain into a container through a fine mesh and allow the stick to cool before placing in the refrigerator overnight.
CHASHU: As the meat & bone stock is cooking you can finally cook your chashu. Start by boiling a pot of water and take the brined pork shoulder from the refrigerator. Now thoroughly rinse it, and begin to roll it with cooking twine into a log shape as best you can!
Once the water is boiling and you have rolled your chashu, carefully place and submerge it into the pot of boiling water. Allow it to boil for 1-2 hours. Combining the ingredients for the chashu sauce into another pot, bring it to 83°C, and then place the chashu in it. The sauce should at least come up to the chashu log halfway. Allow it to cook for an hour (rotating every 15 or 20 minutes to ensure even seasoning). I accidentally snagged the twine when lifting it out, so that’s why it looks a bit loose! 😱
As a final step to lock in the savory flavor, be sure to sear the entire surface area on high heat for a few minutes.
Wrap in foil, and allow it to cool before placing it in the refrigerator for overnight. DO NOT attempt to cut it while it is still hot! It will be very difficult (and dangerous because it’s hot), plus, it will cause the juices to seep out as you are cutting it; your efforts to maintain moisture will be all for naught.
AROMATIC OIL: Also, as the meat & bone stock is cooking, you can prepare the aromatic oil. I took the excess fat from previously pork shoulder butts and cuts of chicken that I had been accumulating. However, for the purpose of this recipe, you should have enough fat/skin that you can cut away from the meat to render enough oil for at least 2-3 bowls of ramen.
I prefer to render the fats separately. Over medium-high heat, add the fat/skin and anout 10ml of water to the pan to get it started. As the fat cooks, it will melt and become less opaque as the oil statts to form. Strain the oil from the pan through a fine mesh into a bowl or container. Add in the sunflower and sesame oils to the bowl containing the oil from rendered fat.
As a bonus, you can even season the chicken skins with a little salt and pepper to have as a snack!
AJITAMA: I prefer to make the chashu first (which by now you likely have), then use some of the leftover sauce. If you wish to use the chashu sauce, be sure to strain it first.
Pierce the egg with at the larger, rounded end, to prevent the eggs from cracking while they boil. Add in the 50ml of rice vinegar, bring to a boil, then boil the eggs for 6-7 minutes. The vinegar’s acidity will slightly break down the egg’s shell and make them easier to peel later on. Immediately after placing them in the pot, for the first 60 seconds, gently stir the eggs clockwise, and counterclockwise, going back and forth in the pot. This will center the yolk of the eggs.
After the eggs have finished cooking, place them into an ice bath to stop cooking process. Marinate the eggs in the chashu sauce and store them in a container in the refrigerator overnight, up to 2 days. By placing a paper towel over the marinade, it keeps the eggs from floating up and helps the eggs to be more evenly marinated. Below is a picture of one egg that has been marinating for 24 hrs. When slicing them, it helps to use fishing wire for a cleaner cut.
DAY FOUR !
Everything should be made, have marinated overnight, etc by now.
BUILDING YOUR BOWL OF RAMEN: For any other toppings you that wish to use, have them already out and ready to use. Place at least 300ml of boiling water into the bowl that you wish to eat from, as you get ready to fix your ramen. This will “pre-heat” the bowl and slow down the rate at which the ramen will cool as you are eating it.
Once you start heating up the broth and boiling noodles, you must work carefully and quickly to assemble your bowl of ramen using the ratios from the ingredients list at the top:
- 10ml of yuzu juice
- 25ml of aromatic oil
- 30ml (or the amount to suit your taste) of tare
- 50ml of seafood reduction
- 300ml of chicken bone stock
- 125g of cooked ramen
Be sure not to let the noodles soak for too long in the hot broth. A bowl of ramen should be eaten within 5-10 minutes after it has been made and served.